By Trish Galbavy, Cosmetology Master Educator at Tricoci University
If you’re a brunette and want those fabulous, bright hair colors that everyone else has, oil slick hair is perfect for you. This coloring technique was originally created by celebrity colorist Aura Friedman of Sally Hershberger Salon by creating iridescent tone mixtures of purples and greens on top of hair for an inky effect. “I’ve been trying to re-create gasoline or oil when it’s on the ground and it rains,” she said. “I find that when you take a dark purple and a dark green and layer them one on top of the other, you end up with this iridescent feeling.” This oily effect tends to reflect opal colors of dark gray, purples, green and black when done correctly. It’s amazing where artists get their inspiration from – why wouldn’t you want those colors on your hair??! Two positives from using the oil slick hair color technique:
1. It requires less bleach, which helps maintain your hair’s health.
We all know bleach is not the best thing for your hair. Many people with naturally dark hair are aware that achieving bleach blonde hair requires multiple salon visits and a waiting period between lightening sessions to maintain hair health. However, the oil slick technique allows you to achieve this look in one salon visit without compromising the health of your hair.
2. The color will last longer.
Pastel colors typically only last around a month, even with good maintenance. This makes the upkeep costly due to the frequent salon visits required. Oil slick hair, however, only needs the usual 6-8 week salon appointments to maintain its color.
So now we know why we should use the oil slick hair technique, let’s go over how to achieve it. First up, we gotta lift the hair a few levels depending on its natural level. Use your favorite balayage technique to lighten it up from the middle to the ends. Because this look is all cool tones, you will also want to darken the base to a dark cool brown or a cool black.
Let the color and lightener do their thing, then rinse but skip the conditioner. Dry the hair until it’s almost dry. Now comes the fun part! Every stylist is an artist. Let your creative instincts take over! You can let the technique come from your heart and free hand the color by what you feel, or you can use a picture and try to copy the pattern. There’s no right or wrong way to apply the fashion colors onto the hair.
I would, however, suggest placing two different colors within the same parting. For example, use the purple at the top part of the pre-lightened hair and melt a green tone towards the ends of the hair strand. Allow each parting to lay on top of each other using foils. It will save time and product cost.
Get The Oil Slick Hair Look
STEP 1: LIGHTEN
Prelighten hair with Balayage & baby lights. You can use anywhere from a 7 to 20 volume developer. Prelighten to a level 7 with a natural level 5.
STEP 2: COLORS
Redken City Beats Time Square Teal, Brooklyn Blue, Indigo Skyline with 1/4 East Village Violet.
STEP 3: APPLICATION
This application technique is based more on feel. Begin by sectioning the hair into 4 quads, take a parting within your section. Choose any color and apply it from the base to mid-strand. Then, apply a second color from mid-strand to ends. Blend the colors using your fingers or a blur brush. Repeat this technique throughout the entire head, alternating colors as you go.
The best part of this technique is that you have creative freedom. You can personalize this look to create a unique style for your client. You can think outside of the box, get as creative as you want, and use this look to put your own personal stamp on this walking billboard.
Balayage & babylights by Alexa Whitt. Redken Fashion colors by Angelina Garza.
For at-home care, as with any fashion color, recommend that your client shampoo their hair separately in cool to cold water. Suggest a color extending shampoo and conditioner to help the color last longer. Also, recommend regular conditioning treatments to maintain the hair’s health.
I really hope these techniques will help you with any of your brunette clientele looking to add a twist to their normal coloring routine. Most of all, I cannot WAIT to see all the creativity that develops from your new oil slick skills. Use the hashtag #tricociuniversity on Instagram and Twitter and show us what you’ve created. Or, create the next “oil slick” trend. The possibilities are endless.